Most of the impressive results you’ll hear about come from medical settings or injections, not from everyday topical skincare (Source: PMC5405115).

Why topical PDRN’s promises don’t really add up

It’s usually studied as an injection or medical treatment

Clinical use tends to involve sub-dermal procedures that bypass the skin barrier. This is in the context of aesthetic medicine though; a very different scenario to a leave-on serum. (Source: Narrative review (PN/PDRN)).

The skin barrier is a hurdle

PDRN is made of larger DNA fragments, which don’t easily move through the outer skin layer without special delivery tricks. That means that topicals may act more on the surface than brands suggest (Source: Vogue Singapore explainer). In-office use of PDRN (for example paired with lasers or micro-needling) relies on creating microchannels or disrupting the barrier so the molecules can reach the dermis. This simply doesn't happen when you use it at home. Even using at-home needling devices won't reach your dermis. 

Topical studies are limited and often mixed with other actives

When PDRN is tested in creams, it’s frequently combined with other far more well researched ingredients like niacinamide, retinol or vitamin C. Most experts agree that this makes it hard to know which ingredient is actually doing the work. In fact, PDRN itself still requires far more research in order for us to understand how to optimally use it. (Source: JCAD narrative review).

Marketing that's ahead of the evidence

Terms like "regeneration" or "DNA repair" sound exciting, but there are several issues. Firstly, these are drug claims which legally can't be made in relation to skincare products. Secondly, reviews still call for stronger topical-only cosmetic trials on intact skin (Source: MDPI review).

Adenosine: the practical, cosmetic-friendly alternative

Adenosine is a small molecule your body already uses for cellular energy, and in K-Beauty it has been used for years in wrinkle-care and firming products. In fact, adenosine is recognized by Korea’s MFDS as a functional cosmetic ingredient for anti-wrinkle use, with a noticed level of 0.04% referenced in regulatory materials (Source: Korea/Japan legislation slide showing “Adenosine 0.04%”; MFDS functional cosmetics overview).

PDRN does not carry this cosmetic functional-ingredient recognition and is approved for use in injectable or clinical contexts in Korea (Source: KFDA-approved Rejuran injections (clinic)).

Cosmetic studies show adenosine can improve the look of lines and overall smoothness in everyday use of creams (Source: PubMed 18489289; PubMed 29574973). Researchers also describe adenosine receptors in skin layers linked to firmness and texture, which helps explain those cosmetic results (Source: PMC9804842).

Takeaway

If you want real-world, cosmetic-friendly results, adenosine has better support for daily topical use, while PDRN’s biggest claims mostly come from clinical or injectable settings (Source: PubMed 18489289; Narrative review).

Sources

• Medical use and background on PDRN: PMC5405115
• PN/PDRN in dermatology (narrative review): PMC11311621
• PDRN topical limitations (consumer explainer): Vogue Singapore
• Calls for stronger cosmetic data: MDPI Review
• Adenosine cosmetic trials: PubMed 18489289, PubMed 29574973
• Skin receptor rationale for adenosine: PMC9804842
• MFDS functional cosmetics framework: MFDS overview
• Adenosine listed as anti-wrinkle functional ingredient (incl. 0.04% reference): Korea/Japan legislation slide
• PDRN used in injections/clinical context: KFDA-approved Rejuran (clinic)